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Shock Absorbers |
- usually OEM
shocks are only marginal - get offroad (cellular, twin tube, monotube,
etc.) shocks at first opportunity (expect to pay $120+ for offroad shocks)
Your selection of shocks can be greatly
expanded by installing bayonet-eliminators in the front. Now you can run
standard eye-to-eye shocks. |
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Shock Boots |
if you run boots
on shocks - make sure there are drain holes & that the holes will
allow water & mud to completely drain out |
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Leaf Springs |
spray silicon
lubricant between leaf-springs - smoother, quieter operation & helps
prevent rust ( downside- makes repainting them difficult)
If your springs are reverse-arched, add a
helper (overload) spring or find someone that has a good set of springs
that have been replaced when installing a lift kit. |
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Ball Joints, Tie Rod Ends & U-Joints |
suggest using only
brand-name components: i.e. SPICER, MOOG, EATON, DANA, etc. - they cost more than
auto-store replacements and don't have 'lifetime guarantees' but you won't
have to replace them nearly as often
replace rubber tie-rod boots with urethane boots - do not tear as easily,
have a positive seal to better keep out water/dirt, especially on extreme
articulation suspensions |
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| anti-sway bars |
- replace rubber bushings with
urethane bushings increase diameter of sway bar on
lifted vehicles install swaybar disconnects to
improve suspension articulation |
| Bumpstops |
bumpstops have to modified when any lift
device is installed - or else you'll start experiencing shock failures. |
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| power steering cooler |
if vehicle is equipped with 35 inch or larger
tires |
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