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is that condition of
the front end shaking violently when irregularities in the road surface are
encountered. It usually is speed-sensitive - only seems to occur at certain
speed ranges. "Death-wobble" has been reported to be caused (or combinations
of causes) by: |
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improper front-end alignment
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- some sources report that
castor-settings below 4 1/2 degrees will cause 'Death Wobble'.
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Most Off-Road shops that we've talked
to said that a castor setting of between 4 1/2 and 7 1/2 degrees seems to
work OK.
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We set the castor on our rigs at 5 1/2
to 7 degrees & toe-in at 1/16 to 5/32 inch depending on tire size &
weight - larger and heavier tires require more castor and toe-in.)
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It is also important to have between
1/16 and 3/16 of toe-in.
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Toe-in settings that are "0", " -
"(toe-out) or near "0" seem to aggravate 'Death Wobble.
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;
loose or improperly installed track bar
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- the front axle
must be centered under the frame for proper
tracking.
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Also try to get the track bar and drag
link as close to parallel as possible.
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Check both mounting points carefully
for loosening.
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Whether you have a tie-rod style or
flex joint-type mounting - be sure to check for any wear in the joint.
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It's really a good idea to make this
part of your normal maintenance routine.
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;
loose or bad tie-rod ends
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- any loose tie-rod end in the steering
linkage is BAD NEWS!
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Be sure to check these often - like
before and after any off-roading.
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Keep them well greased - and - make
sure the grease/shield boots are in place and in good shape.
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A good idea is to replace the rubber
boots with urethane boots whenever possible.
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(If you have to replace your tie-rod
ends - PLEASE use a good aftermarket name-brand tie-rod end, i.e. MOOG,
etc. - this not a good place to save $$'s)
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;
worn ball-joints
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- just like tie-rod ends - any play in
them is BAD NEWS!
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Keep them well greased.
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It's a lot cheaper to maintain them
than to replace them.
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(If you have to replace your ball
joints - PLEASE use a good aftermarket name-brand ball joint, i.e. MOOG,
etc. - this is not a good place to save $$'s)
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loose or improperly installed control arms
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- Control arm mounting bolts must be
kept tight.
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Check them often when off-roading.
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If you have replaced the stock units
with aftermarket control arms - be sure to follow the manufacturer's
instructions.
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Use the proper mounting hardware and
torque.
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;
*loose steering box
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- sometimes the steering box mounting
bolts will start to pull through the UniFrame under heavy steering loads
(i.e. large tires, extreme articulation) causing the steering box to
loosen.
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If you run large tires (33 inch &
larger) and do some extreme off-roading, you should make re-torquing the
three steering box bolts and checking for 'pull through' part of your
normal 'before and after' vehicle maintenance routine.
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Our 6- inch Reinforcing
Side Plates (part of our Front
Bumper Mounting System), properly installed will eliminate
'pull-through.'
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;
*front-end frame flex
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- stock Uni-Frame bulkhead is marginal
with stock vehicle height and stock tires.
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When an XJ is lifted and larger tires
are installed the front bulkhead is just not strong enough to control
front end flex.
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There are aftermarket frame struts
which stiffen the front end.
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Our solution was to build a
Front Bumper Mounting System
for our bumpers that reinforces the bulkhead . . .
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And that along with the side plates and
bumper form a 'box-structure' to stiffen not only the bulkhead but also
the front frame horns.
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The GOOD NEWS is that ‘front-end frame flex’ and ‘loose steering box’ are
almost always eliminated as causes of "Death Wobble" by proper installation
of our Bulkhead
Reinforcing Plate and
Side Reinforcing Plates.
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